IWC GST
The IWC GST collection was introduced in 1998, after IWC’s successful collaboration with Porsche Design (1978-1997) came to an end. The IWC GST carried on the memorable futuristic design language that watch collectors came to appreciate from IWC and Porsche Design, with a slightly updated aesthetic and new materials. GST is an acronym that stands for gold, steel and titanium. If you are looking for a dependable watch with traditional mechanics and a modern design, the IWC GST collection should be on your radar.
GST Deep One
Introduced in 1999, the GST Deep One (3527) was IWC’s ultimate diving watch. It had an amazing array of features that made it suitable for the professional diver, including an internal rotating bezel, a case and bracelet made of titanium, and a mechanical depth gauge. Rotating bezels are essential in dive watches. They allow the wearer to easily track their time underwater, even when wearing cumbersome equipment. One common problem that rotating bezels may face is their susceptibility to knocks that would throw off their timing or damage the bezel. The internal rotating bezel addresses this issue by placing the bezel under the crystal of the watch, to be adjusted only with a dedicated crown.
Titanium is the perfect material for a dive watch, because of its extreme durability and resistance to corrosion. It is famously difficult to machine, but IWC has mastered the technique. Finally, the mechanical depth gauge is an ingenious complication that often serves as a backup device today. Modern divers likely would use a dive computer that keeps track of depth. But an electronic device can run out of battery or otherwise stop functioning, leaving the mechanical backup as a lifesaver. The mechanical depth gauge in the IWC GST Deep One is based on the Bourdon Tube, which is a pressure-sensing element that changes shape at different depths. The miniature version inside the IWC GST Deep One is an incredible feat of microengineering.
GST Perpetual Calendar Chronograph
The perpetual calendar and chronograph are among the most desired complications seen today in luxury mechanical watches. Both complications are extremely useful in day-to-day life and represent elements of the historical nature of watchmaking. The challenge with these complications is that the data they indicate on the dial can be complex, which makes the dial difficult to read. With the IWC GST Perpetual Calendar Chronograph (3756), IWC did an incredible job at streamlining and simplifying what would have otherwise been a busy dial. The dial is arranged symmetrically, with four subdials. At 12 o’clock, the subdial indicates the chronograph minutes (up to 30) and the current moon phase (also known as the synoptic period). At 3 o’clock, the subdial indicates the day of the month. At 6 o’clock, the subdial indicates the current month of the year, as well as the chronograph hours (up to 12). Directly to the left of the 6 o’clock subdial is a year display, which shows all four digits of the current year. And at 9 o’clock, the subdial indicates the day of the week, as well as the running seconds for the watch. In the center of the dial, the standard chronograph configuration of running hours, minutes and chronograph seconds is used. This dial is a joy to look at and reads and works well with the modern aesthetic of the case and bracelet. This stunning watch is available with a black or salmon (orange) dial.
GST Aquatimer
Introduced in 1998 and in production until 2004, the IWC GST Aquatimer (IW353602) marked the return of the Aquatimer name. IWC originally produced the Aquatimer in the 1960s, and it was a very popular dive watch for the time. The updated IWC GST Aquatimer was available in titanium and featured an external rotating bezel. Titanium is a wonderful metal for diving watches: It is extremely durable and highly resistant to corrosion. As you can imagine, dive watches are very susceptible to corrosion because of their repeated exposures to the salt water of the ocean. The IWC GST Aquatimer is water resistant up to 2,000 meters, which is a very respectable depth for a modern dive watch. The case measures at 42mm wide by 14mm thick. This size strikes a great balance between a tool watch used for a specific purpose and a versatile watch that can be worn every day.
IWC GST Pricing and Availability
Because there are many different models in the IWC GST collection, the range of prices on the preowned market has some variety. Examples of the IWC GST Chronograph (IW370708) sell for about $2,500. Examples of the silver version of the IWC GST Chronograph (IW372703) sell for slightly less, in the range of $1,800 to $2,000. The IWC GST Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is understandably more expensive, selling for about $9,000.